Elk Moose Deer Scopes
Elk Moose Deer Scopes
I am looking for info on how magnification affects zero on a variable 3-9 scope?
I shoot a 270 Calibre 150 grain bullet. I zero in at 3" high @ 100 yards @ 6 Magnification power.
Often times I take shots 200 - 700 yards out utilizing hold over @ 6 power at Deer, Moose or Elk.
When I've zeroed in my gun as explained, and I increase the power to 9 to see where it hits, the bullet drops. This tends to confuse me, so I just keep my Magnification power @ 6 for all shots. I was always under the impression, the magnification was to bring the target closer at long ranges, and the increased magnification compensated for the increased range.
Could someone explain this to me? As well as the variable objective lens and what if anything that does to zero as it is adjusted.
Joe,
I am a long time Alaskan hunter, trapper, 30 years military and civilian competiton long range shooter, and Certified Alaskan Hunter Safety Instructor.
When people tell me they shoot deer, elk and moose at distances of over 400 yards - my BS detector goes off every time because only on rare ocassions had anyone's long range shooting claim hold up when the laser range finder came out. I have personally taken Sitka Blacktail deer at 600+ yards and caribou at 500+ yards - but in each case we went back the next day and laser ranged the shots. Most ranges available to shooters are only 200 yards - they never get to spend time on a 600 yard KD (known distance) range and never, ever, have a UD (unknown range) available. I do.
That you are having issues between 6x and 9x also tells me you are actually shooting at these distances. So, I am inclined to believe you. Fact is you cannot do long range shooting with an inexpensive scope. The are designed for the 99% of shooters that only shoot to 200 - 300 yards and about never beyond.
Two things will cause this - and there are solutions. First is parallax error. This is where the shooters zero become less accurate as the magnification is increased - your eye perceives the cross hairs at a different x-y axis - there are better scopes with a parallax adjustable OA - this requries to shooter to perform the extra step of guessing the distance and adjusting the front lens. Your more expensive scopes with better glass can correct this without having the extra step - but it cost $$.
On benefit to a scope with a Paralax AO lens - you can get a nice crisp crystal clear view of the target at all ranges from 25 yards to 600 yards. Very awesome for target practice - not good when you set it at 25 yards for a close in shot, your game animal runs - the next time you spot it it's at 350 yards and if you do not adjust the AO it will be one big blur. This is why you leave the AO adjustable scope for the paper punchers - and hunters buy the more expensive ones that are parallax free.
The other issue with the long range shooter and a scope - different hold. Short range shots are normally taken off hand or in a kneeling positon. Your face/eyeball and cross hair alignment is critical to an accurate shot. Shooters hold different for a long range shot - this will change your zero - enough to make a difference on along range shot. It is very important you either use the same hold (near impossible unless you are a skill highpower competition shooter and have learned it over the years) - or you undstand the zero difference between your close range and long range hold. This difference is why your bullet drop doesn't match what the calculated trajectory should be.
You can email me for scope suggesitons.
Hope this helps
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